PARIS, France — Luke and Lucie Meier chose a presentation format for their latest Jil Sander collection. In it, they mixed a slightly mysterious video shot by Anders Edstrom in the outskirts of Milan with a display of clothing on hangers and lookbook pictures plastered on walls. The art direction was exquisite, making the different elements collide, but this should really be the last time they opt for such a setup. The collection was so well conceived and so focused, it truly deserved a catwalk show.

The couple is doing well in the house that Jil build and their menswear is particularly relevant. The Meiers managed to translate the house' founding principle - purism, and a stress on materials - into shapes that are essential as much as they are metropolitan. There is a pervasive ease in what they do, a sense of confidence and protection which is truly their own. Once a dreamer, or maybe a corporate dreamer, the Jil Sander man has got a wholly new urban spirit. He's more adventurous, if still very pragmatic, and all the better for it.