The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Chloé creative director Gabriela Hearst is stepping down after three years at the Richemont-owned brand. Her last show for the label will be on September 28.
No successor has been named, though Chloé has hired Chemena Kamali, a former Saint Laurent design director for women’s ready-to-wear, to lead a parallel design studio at the label. Chloé declined to comment on whether Kamali would become its next creative director.
A collaboration between Chloé and actress Angelina Jolie’s new fashion brand, Atelier Jolie, is set to go ahead as planned.
Hearst, well known in the industry for her stance on sustainability, became creative director at Chloé in late 2020. She worked to improve the brand’s social and environmental credentials and, in 2021, Chloé became the first major luxury brand to earn B Corp certification.
But in recent years, Chloé has struggled to keep pace with rivals as sales surged for many luxury brands. Under Hearst, Chloé enjoyed momentum selling lower-priced items, such as its knit “Nama” sneakers, but struggled to sell the more expensive leather goods that once anchored its business, according to sources. (Richemont does not break out sales for Chloé).
In a statement, Richemont fashion and accessories chief executive Philippe Fortunato said Hearst had laid “strong foundations for future growth and for being an inspirational Maison for sustainability in fashion.”
“Gabriela has brought great energy and a dynamic creative vision to her role at Chloé, contributing to a period of significant progress for the business, and writing a powerful new chapter in the story of our Maison,” added Chloé CEO Riccardo Bellini.
Hearst, who is originally from Uruguay, launched her own namesake luxury brand Gabriela Hearst in 2015, after a decade running contemporary label Candela. Gabriela Hearst, known for its “slow luxury” approach, quickly garnered a following for its sharp tailoring and amassed a wait list for its elevated “Nina” pouch bag, which is produced in limited quantities. In 2021, first lady Jill Biden wore a Gabriela Hearst ensemble for the presidential inauguration evening celebrations.
”It has been the greatest privilege to share my creative vision and to add my voice to the story of Chloé, a remarkable Maison that I have always loved so dearly,” Hearst said in a statement. “I am so proud of the positive change we have collectively achieved in developing a business and design perspective that puts our people and our environment first.”
A former Saint Laurent design director Chemena Kamali is leading a parallel studio at Chloé, with Gabriela Hearst’s future at the Richemont-owned brand unclear, sources said.
A former Saint Laurent design director Chemena Kamali is leading a parallel studio at Chloé, with Gabriela Hearst’s future at the Richemont-owned brand unclear, sources said.
Richemont-owned Chloé became the European luxury industry’s first major player to achieve certification as a “B-Corp”.
The New York-based Uruguayan designer succeeds Natacha Ramsay-Levi at the Richemont-owned label, bringing a track record of success in handbags and a passion for eco-friendly practises.
Tamison O’Connor is Luxury Correspondent at The Business of Fashion. She is based in London and covers the dynamic luxury fashion sector.
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