The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Chloé has officially named Chemena Kamali its next creative director.
As previously reported in BoF, the Richemont-owned label had tapped Kamali to lead a parallel studio at Chloé as it prepared for the departure of former creative director Gabriela Hearst, who staged her last show for the brand on September 28th at Paris Fashion Week.
Kamali joined Chloé from Saint Laurent, where she was a key deputy of Anthony Vaccarello, serving as design director for women’s ready to wear, but has a history at Chloé, where she worked under designer Phoebe Philo and again as design director to Clare Waight Keller.
“Chemena’s vision, inspired by her love for the brand, will truly celebrate Chloé's unique DNA. Chemena is both the creative director of Chloé and the embodiment of the Chloé spirit,” said Chloé president and CEO Riccardo Bellini in a statement.
“My heart has always been Chloé's. It has been since I stepped through its doors more than 20 years ago,” added Kamali.
Now back at the label and officially installed in the top creative job, Kamali has her work cut out for her. In recent years, Chloé has struggled to keep pace with rivals as sales surged for many luxury brands.
Under Hearst, Chloé enjoyed momentum selling lower-priced items, such as its knit “Nama” sneakers, but struggled to sell the more expensive leather goods that once anchored its business, according to sources. (Richemont does not break out sales for Chloé).
Kamali will present her first pre-collection for the label in Paris in January 2024, followed by an autumn/winter collection to be shown during Paris Fashion Week in February 2024.
A former Saint Laurent design director Chemena Kamali is leading a parallel studio at Chloé, with Gabriela Hearst’s future at the Richemont-owned brand unclear, sources said.
The designer’s last show for the Richemont-owned house will be on September 28. No successor has been named.
Vikram Alexei Kansara is Editorial Director at The Business of Fashion. He is based in London and oversees BoF’s luxury, fashion week, sustainability, global markets and opinion verticals.
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